Full size C-3PO hands.
These are meant for a static or animatronic C-3PO/protocol droid, they are not designed to be worn.
There are a few versions available, so find the one that suits your needs.
Hand with printed wires on the palm, with integrated nubs at the base of the fingers.
Hand with printed wires on the palm, without nubs
Hand without printed wires, with "tunnels" for real wires, with integrated nubs
Hand without printed wires, with tunnels, without nubs
Hand without printed wires, with tunnels, with glue "trenches" for real wires, with nubs.
Hand without printed wires, with tunnels, with trenches, without nubs.
The pistons on the back are separated since printing those in one go won't work unless you pint with an SLS machine.
The pistons are available in 3 versions.
One piece for printing in SLS/SLA printers
Split down the middle for flat printing on FDM machines, can be glued together.
Split into three parts for printing upright on FDM machines (the ridges have been edited so they should print fine without support, you'll only need support for the pegs).
The pegs on the pistons are 3mm in diameter, the holes in the back of the hand are purposefully snug to help keep them attached. Some sanding of the pegs/holes might be necessary to make them fit.
If you are printing the hand without the integrated nubs on the back of the hand at the base of the fingers, print four of the separate nubs. There are 1.75mm holes in the nubs and the top of the hand piece, so you can use a bit of filament to register them when gluing them in place.
The snaps that hold the original gloves closed are separate pieces that should pressure fit into holes for them. The piece of material that connects the two on the real gloves can be printed and fits right in there, or can be left out, your choice.
The holes for the snaps are purposefully snug, some sanding of the snaps/holes might be necessary to make them fit.
The "tunnels" to make real wires run under the pads and finger pieces will need sanding/filing to make your specific wires work. The tunnels are around 1mm in diameter at the outer edges, but widen out to a bit over 3mm wide furore into the model.
The point of the holes being smaller on the outside is so you can carefully file/sand them to the correct size to make your wires fit snugly without leaving a gap.
I have been testing with 1.5mm wire which seems really close to what is used in the movie suits, but the tunnels should accommodate 2.5mm wires without issue, and even 3mm should work, so no need to spend months finding the perfect wire to make it work.
The hands are hollow, mostly 2mm thick, and should print without support. I haven't run a full hand yet at this point, but I don't think there will be any issues.
There is plenty of room on the inside of the palm to epoxy a magnet into place so 3PO can hold props like a comlink.
After running some tests I'm personally not sold on the "glue ranches idea", it seemed like a good idea when I started, but keeping thinner wire in mind they have to be really shallow/thin to not be visible, and I'm not sure they are very effective.
On top of that having stuck wires in my test prints I think not gluing the wires down at all might be the way to go.
If you make the holes in the pads snug enough the wires won't go anywhere, and it seems like glue isn't even necessary inside those tunnels. But I've added the files, others might feel differently about them.
Disclaimer:
I have printed a bunch of pieces for testing, but no complete hand yet, so anyone who wants to have at it is welcome to and I would love to hear/see how it goes on various printers.
